Tsuwano

Tsuwano, often described as the 'Little Kyoto of San'in,' is a captivating castle town situated within the mountains of Shimane Prefecture. This evocative town, with a population of approximately 6,600, offers passage into Japan's feudal era, preserving its traditional atmosphere and historical importance. It is a place where the pace of life seems to slow, inviting visitors to wander through its well-maintained samurai district, explore ancient shrines, and observe distinctive cultural traditions.

The town's allure is immediately evident along Tonomachi Street, where old samurai mansions with white earthen walls and dark red roof tiles line the thoroughfare. Adding to this serene scene are the historic water channels, initially constructed for irrigation and fire prevention, now home to hundreds of colorful koi carp that drift gracefully through the clear waters. Beyond its visual appeal, Tsuwano is a place of profound cultural roots, having fostered notable figures in literature and philosophy, and continuing traditional crafts like washi papermaking.

From Castle Stronghold to 'Little Kyoto'

The history of Tsuwano stretches back to 1295 when the Yoshimi clan began constructing a castle, laying the foundations of the town. For many centuries, the Yoshimi family governed the area, followed by a brief period under the Sakazaki family. In 1617, the Kamei clan assumed control of Tsuwano Domain, ruling for 11 generations and significantly shaping the town's evolution.

During the Edo Period (1603-1868), Tsuwano thrived as a jōkamachi, or castle town, with its central area gathered around the castle. The town's fundamental structure, including Hommachi and Imaichi Streets, was already established by the early 17th century. The Kamei clan further developed the castle town, with the palace on Tonomachi Street serving as its administrative core. This era saw the creation of institutions like the domain academy 'Yorokan' by the eighth daimyō, Kamei Norikata, which instructed subjects such as Confucianism, military science, archery, and horsemanship.

A Somber Chapter: Christian Persecution

Tsuwano also holds a poignant position in Japan's religious narrative. Following the lifting of edicts restricting foreigners in the mid-19th century, a number of 'Hidden Christians' (Kakure Kirishitan) surfaced, having practiced their faith in secret for over 250 years since Christianity was outlawed in the early 17th century. However, the new Meiji government, in 1868, maintained the prohibition on Christianity. Approximately 3,400 Christians from Nagasaki were arrested and dispersed to various domains across the country for 'reeducation.' Of these, 153 were sent to Tsuwano and confined in an abandoned temple at Otome Pass. They endured severe torture and starvation in an attempt to compel them to abandon their faith. Thirty-seven of these individuals died in Tsuwano and are now recognized as the Martyrs of Tsuwano. The persecution ceased in 1873 due to international pressure, and the surviving Christians were released.

Modern Era and Cultural Preservation

After the Meiji Restoration, Tsuwano continued to be a place of importance, with influential figures like novelist Mori Ōgai and philosopher Nishi Amane originating from the domain. Today, Tsuwano is recognized as a 'Japan Heritage' site, celebrated for its preserved historic buildings, traditional crafts, and lively festivals. The town actively works to maintain its Edo-period character, inviting visitors to experience its enduring past and cultural traditions.

Begin your exploration on Tonomachi Street, the core of Tsuwano's old town. This street is known for its preserved samurai residences with white walls and black lattice windows, alongside historic water canals teeming with colorful koi carp. You can wander along these streets, feed the fish, and visit Hanko Yorokan, a former samurai school now serving as a folk museum, providing insights into Edo-period education.

A significant landmark is the Taikodani Inari Shrine, one of Japan's five grandest Inari shrines. A path lined with over a thousand vermillion torii gates leads uphill to the main shrine grounds, offering expansive views of the town. The shrine was constructed in the mid-18th century to safeguard Tsuwano Castle from malevolent spirits.

For historical insights and broad vistas, ascend to the Tsuwano Castle Ruins. While only stone walls and foundations remain, the site, situated 200 meters (656 feet) above the town, provides excellent photo opportunities and, on clear mornings, a chance to witness an unkai (sea of clouds) transforming the ruins into a 'castle in the sky.' You can hike up the mountain trail or take a chairlift for a quicker ascent.

Another important site is the Otome Pass Maria Chapel, a memorial dedicated to the Christian martyrs of Tsuwano. This chapel, with its blend of Japanese and Western architecture, stands on the site where 'Hidden Christians' were imprisoned and persecuted in the 19th century.

Consider experiencing an Iwami Kagura performance, a traditional dance-theater based on Japanese mythology, known for its intricate costumes, lively music, and dynamic storytelling. These performances are often held at local shrines, including Taikodani Inari Shrine.

The most pleasant times to visit Tsuwano are during April, May, October, and November. During these months, temperatures are comfortable, ranging between 17°C and 23°C (62°F and 73°F), with agreeable rainfall. Spring offers cherry blossoms, while autumn brings vivid red maples and golden ginkgo trees to the townscape. Visiting in autumn also increases your chances of witnessing the unkai (sea of clouds) from the castle ruins. While Tsuwano experiences a distinct rainy season from June to September, the town's natural beauty remains captivating throughout the year.

Tsuwano is located in Shimane Prefecture, approximately halfway between Yamaguchi City and Masuda. From major cities like Tokyo, Osaka, or Kyoto, take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Shin-Yamaguchi Station. From there, transfer to the JR Yamaguchi Line, which takes about one to two hours to reach Tsuwano Station. For a distinctive travel experience, consider riding the SL Yamaguchi steam locomotive from Shin-Yamaguchi to Tsuwano. Hagi-Iwami Airport in Masuda also offers daily flights to and from Tokyo.

Once in Tsuwano, many of the main attractions, including the samurai district of Tonomachi, Taikodani Inari Shrine, and the castle ruins, are accessible on foot or by rented bicycle. Bicycle rentals are available, with options for hourly or daily rates. A chairlift provides a convenient way to reach the Tsuwano Castle Ruins. The Tsuwano Tourist Office, situated next to the station, offers English-language materials and assistance.