Sandakan

Sandakan, Sabah's second-largest city, is a coastal hub on Borneo's northeastern shores, facing the Sulu Sea. Once the capital of British North Borneo, it carries a complex history, evident in its colonial architecture and poignant WWII memorials. Today, Sandakan is recognized as a primary gateway to some of Borneo's most compelling wildlife encounters and natural landscapes, drawing visitors eager to explore its unique blend of heritage and biodiversity.

From 'Pawned Place' to 'Little Hong Kong'

Sandakan's origins trace back to the early 1870s with a Scottish arms smuggler named William Clark Cowie, who established the first European settlement, initially named 'Sandakan'—a Suluk word meaning 'the place that was pawned.' This initial settlement, known as Kampung German due to the presence of German traders, was destroyed by fire in 1879. William B. Pryer of the British North Borneo Company then founded a new settlement, temporarily calling it Elopura, meaning 'Beautiful City,' but the original name, Sandakan, persisted.

In 1883, Sandakan became the administrative capital of British North Borneo, replacing Kudat, and quickly grew into a bustling commercial and trading center. Its strategic harbor location on the Sulu Sea made it an ideal seaport, facilitating trade in valuable resources like timber, rattan, and bird's nests. By the 1930s, Sandakan was a leading global exporter of hardwood, and this prosperity, coupled with a significant influx of Chinese migrants from Hong Kong, earned it the nickname 'Little Hong Kong.'

However, this era of prosperity was abruptly halted by World War II. Japanese forces occupied Sandakan in January 1942, establishing a prisoner-of-war camp. The town suffered extensive damage from Allied bombings and Japanese scorched-earth tactics, leading to its near-total destruction by 1945. The horrific Sandakan Death Marches, which began here in 1945, resulted in the deaths of thousands of Allied prisoners of war. Following the war, the capital of British North Borneo was moved to Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu) in 1946. Despite the devastation, Sandakan was rebuilt rapidly, re-establishing itself as a major port, initially for timber, and later diversifying its economy to include palm oil and tourism.

Sandakan offers a compelling mix of historical sites and natural wonders. Begin by tracing the city's past along the Sandakan Heritage Trail, which includes stops at the oldest stone church in Sabah, St. Michael's and All Angels Church, and the colonial-era Agnes Keith House, home to the American author of 'Land Below the Wind.' For sweeping views of Sandakan Bay, visit the Puu Jih Shih Temple, a magnificent Buddhist temple situated on a hill. The Sandakan Memorial Park serves as a poignant reminder of the WWII Death Marches, offering gardens and an exhibition hall.

Beyond the city, Sandakan is a launchpad for remarkable wildlife experiences. The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is an essential visit, offering a chance to observe rehabilitated orangutans in a semi-wild environment during feeding sessions. Adjacent to it is the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, dedicated to the world's smallest bear species. Further afield, consider a river cruise along the Kinabatangan River for opportunities to spot proboscis monkeys, crocodiles, and pygmy elephants. For a unique marine experience, an overnight trip to Turtle Islands Park allows you to witness green and hawksbill turtles laying eggs and hatchlings being released into the sea.

The best time to visit Sandakan is generally during Sabah's dry season, which runs from March to September. While temperatures remain consistently warm year-round, rainfall is lower during these months. March to May are particularly good for wildlife viewing, as the drier weather often brings orangutans and other animals closer to feeding areas. If your interest lies in snorkeling and clear waters, June to October offers the best conditions. Travelers looking to visit the Turtle Islands should avoid December, January, and February, as these are the wettest months, and sea crossings can be rough.

Sandakan Airport (SDK) is the most convenient entry point, located about 5 km from the city center, with taxis or shuttles taking around 30 minutes. Many international travelers fly into Kota Kinabalu International Airport (BKI) and take a connecting 45-minute flight to Sandakan. While a bus journey from Kota Kinabalu is an option, it's a longer trip, averaging 6-8 hours.

Navigating Sandakan city center is walkable, but for longer distances, ride-hailing apps like Grab are a convenient and affordable choice. Public minibuses are available, and taxis are easily found, though fare negotiation may be necessary as meters are not commonly used. When visiting religious sites, remember to remove your shoes. Light, breathable clothing made from cotton or linen is recommended due to the tropical humidity, along with comfortable walking shoes and a lightweight raincoat for unexpected showers.