Ely

Ely, a small cathedral city in Cambridgeshire, England, offers a distinctive blend of enduring architecture and tranquil riverside appeal. It is often referred to as the 'Ship of the Fens,' its grand cathedral standing tall over the flat surrounding landscape, a testament to its historical prominence. Once an actual island accessible only by boat until the 17th-century drainage of the Fens, Ely retains a unique sense of place and a past that unfolds through its medieval streets and venerable buildings.

Despite its grand cathedral, Ely maintains the inviting atmosphere of a market town, with a population of around 19,200 people. Visitors can easily explore the city on foot, discovering independent shops, welcoming cafes, and scenic walks along the River Great Ouse. Ely serves as a peaceful escape, offering a glimpse into centuries of English heritage, from Anglo-Saxon origins to its role in the English Civil War.

From Ancient Isle to Cathedral City

The story of Ely begins long before its grand cathedral, rooted in its unique geography as an 'island' of higher ground within the vast, waterlogged Fens. This natural isolation made it a strategic location and gave rise to its name, derived from the abundance of eels in the surrounding waters. In 673 AD, an Anglo-Saxon princess, Saint Etheldreda, founded the first Christian community here, a double monastery for both monks and nuns. This early abbey was destroyed by Danish invaders around 870 AD but was refounded as a Benedictine monastery in 970 AD.

By the time of the Norman Conquest, Ely was the second richest monastery in England. William the Conqueror began construction of the present Norman Cathedral in 1083, a monumental undertaking that took nearly 300 years to complete and served as a powerful symbol of Norman authority. In 1109, the monastic church was granted cathedral status. A significant architectural event occurred in 1322 when the cathedral's central Norman tower collapsed. This led to the ambitious construction of the Octagon, a unique octagonal lantern tower that remains one of the cathedral's most distinctive features.

Ely's history also intertwines with Oliver Cromwell, who inherited an estate in the area in 1636 and lived in Ely for a decade. He served as a local tax collector and, notably, closed the cathedral for about ten years, using it to stable his cavalry horses during a disagreement with the clergy. The Fens themselves underwent a dramatic transformation in the 17th and 18th centuries with extensive drainage projects, ending Ely's physical isolation. Ely's city status was officially confirmed by royal charter in 1974.

The undeniable focal point of Ely is its magnificent Cathedral, often called the 'Ship of the Fens' due to its commanding presence over the flat landscape. Visitors can explore its Romanesque and Gothic architecture, including the impressive West Tower and the unique Octagon with its wooden lantern. Inside the cathedral, you'll find the Stained Glass Museum, showcasing a collection of stained glass from the 13th century to the present day.

A short walk from the Cathedral is Oliver Cromwell's House, the former family home of the Lord Protector. This 13th-century house offers interactive displays, period rooms, and a Civil War exhibition, providing insight into 17th-century life and Cromwell's story. The Ely Museum, housed in the city's Old Gaol, tells the broader history of the Isle of Ely from the Ice Age to modern times.

Beyond the major historical sites, take a stroll along Ely's riverside, where you can enjoy views of the River Great Ouse, discover antique shops, and relax in cafes. Jubilee Gardens offers a pleasant green space for a leisurely walk or a picnic. For a taste of local life, visit Ely Markets, held on Thursdays and Saturdays, featuring local produce, crafts, and collectibles.

The most agreeable time to visit Ely is during the summer months, from late June to early September, when the weather is warm and comfortable, allowing for enjoyable outdoor activities and exploration of the city and surrounding countryside. July is typically the warmest month, with average highs around 72°F (22°C). Spring and autumn also offer pleasant conditions, though cooler. Ely hosts events like the Eel Festival in May and the Ely Folk Festival in July, which can add a lively buzz to your visit.

Ely is easily accessible by both road and rail. It is approximately 15-20 minutes by train from Cambridge and about 1 hour 15 minutes from London. If driving, Cambridge is about a 20-minute drive away. Once in Ely, the city center and its main attractions are compact and easily explored on foot. Parking is generally available, with some free options, though the Angel Drove car park near the railway station charges. Oliver Cromwell's House also serves as the local Tourist Information Centre, providing a helpful starting point for visitors.

Ely Cathedral charges an admission fee for visitors, though entry is free for those wishing to pray or attend services. Tower tours are available for an additional cost and are subject to weather conditions and age restrictions. It is advisable to check the official websites for Ely Cathedral, Oliver Cromwell's House, and the Stained Glass Museum for current opening hours and to book tickets or tours in advance, as schedules can vary due to events or seasonal changes.