Craiova

Craiova, the unofficial capital of Romania's Oltenia region, is a city that often surprises visitors with its blend of historical depth, architectural elegance, and expansive green spaces. Situated near the Jiu River, it serves as a significant cultural and commercial hub in southwestern Romania. The city's atmosphere is one of quiet strength, where medieval traditions intertwine with European aristocratic influences and modern urban planning. Craiova offers a unique experience, from its revitalized Old Town to its monumental parks, inviting exploration beyond the usual tourist routes.

With a population of around 300,000, Craiova is among Romania's largest cities. It is a city that has consistently bounced back from challenges, including earthquakes, plagues, and invasions, demonstrating a resilient spirit throughout its long existence. This enduring character is reflected in its diverse architecture, from the Brâncovenesc style of its churches to neoclassical palaces and even remnants of the communist era.

## From Dacian Stronghold to Regional Capital Craiova's origins trace back to ancient times, built upon the site of the Dacian settlement of Pelendava, which existed as early as 400-350 BC. After the Roman invasion of Dacia, Pelendava was renamed Castra Nova. The city is first officially mentioned in documents in 1475, noted as an important administrative and trade center. By the 15th century, Craiova became the residence of the powerful Bans of Craiova, military governors who held significant political and economic sway in the Wallachian state. The Craiovești family, prominent bans, held vast economic power, owning approximately 100 villages by the end of the 16th century.

Throughout the 15th and 16th centuries, Craiova solidified its position as a political, economic, and cultural force, becoming the de facto capital of the Oltenia region in 1492. The city played a role in resistance against the Ottoman Empire, notably near the site of the Battle of Rovine in 1395, where Wallachian Prince Mircea I achieved a victory over Bayezid I. The late 17th and early 18th centuries saw an architectural transformation with the emergence of the Brâncovenesc style, a fusion of Romanian traditional art with Byzantine and Venetian elements. Structures like Saint Ilie Church (1720) and the All Saints Church (1700) exemplify this period.

Despite facing challenges such as an earthquake in 1790, a plague in 1795, and a Turkish assault in 1802 that resulted in the city being burned, Craiova consistently recovered and prospered as a regional trading center. The city experienced significant economic growth during the Tsarist occupation (1828–1834), becoming Oltenia's commercial hub. In 1913, Craiova hosted the signing of the Peace Treaty that concluded the Balkan War. Notably, Craiova was the first city in Romania to be powered by electricity from internal combustion engines. The city continued to develop, becoming a municipality in 1968 and establishing the University of Craiova in 1965, which is now a leading scientific center in the region.

Begin your exploration in Craiova's revitalized Old Town, a pedestrian zone with restored 19th-century buildings, cafes, restaurants, and boutiques. Here, you'll find architectural details and unique passages like Lipscani Passage.

A prominent landmark is the Craiova Art Museum, housed in the spectacular Jean Mihail Palace. Designed in 1898 by French architect Paul Gottereau, the palace showcases neo-classic and late-Baroque styles, and the museum holds a significant collection of Romanian and European art, including six early works by sculptor Constantin Brâncuși.

For a dose of history, visit the Museum of the Region of Oltenia, which is actually three museums: History and Archaeology, Ethnography (housed in Casa Baniei, the oldest non-religious building in Craiova, built in 1699), and Natural Sciences. The St. Demetrius Metropolitan Cathedral, rebuilt between 1889 and 1933 on the foundations of a 15th-century church, is another important religious site.

Escape the urban bustle at Nicolae Romanescu Park, one of the largest urban parks in Romania and third largest in Europe. Designed by French architect Édouard Redont, this 250-acre park features an artificial lake, a suspension bridge, a zoo, and a racetrack. The Craiova Botanical Garden, with its artificial lakes and statues, is also a serene green space to explore.

Craiova experiences a temperate-continental climate with distinct seasons. The most pleasant times to visit are during the transitional seasons of May and September, when the weather is mild and suitable for sightseeing and outdoor activities. Summer, particularly July and August, can be hot with average highs exceeding 30°C, making it ideal for sun-lovers, though evenings remain comfortable. Autumn, especially September and October, offers dry and comfortable weather for walks. While winters are generally mild compared to other Eastern European regions, with temperatures around 0-5°C, December is notable for the Craiova Christmas Market.

Craiova International Airport (CRA) is located approximately 7.6 km from the city center, with taxis and buses available for transport. Alternatively, Bucharest Henri Coanda International Airport (OTP) is about 185.6 km away. Within the city, public transportation is operated by Craiova Transport Authority (RAT Craiova), offering 17 bus routes and 3 tram routes. Taxis are also readily available and inexpensive, costing around €0.30 per kilometer. If driving, remember that Romania drives on the right, seatbelts are compulsory, and speed limits are 50 km/h in residential areas, 90 km/h on national routes, and 130 km/h on motorways. An international driving license, car registration, and insurance papers are required for foreigners. Tipping around 10% is customary in restaurants and cafes. While English is not widely spoken, younger generations may have some proficiency.