Auch

Auch, the historic capital of Gascony and the prefecture of the Gers department, invites exploration in southwestern France. This city, with a population of around 23,000, is bisected by the Gers River and built on and around a hill, offering distinct upper and lower quarters. The elevated Haute-Ville, or upper town, presents a medieval core with narrow streets and half-timbered houses, contrasting with the more modern lower town.

Known for its connection to d'Artagnan, the legendary musketeer, and its Armagnac heritage, Auch combines traditional Gascon identity with cultural attractions and local markets. It serves as a convivial gateway to the region's markets and distilleries, making it a destination for those interested in history, art, and regional gastronomy.

## From Roman Augusta to Gascon Capital Auch's origins stretch back to ancient times, initially inhabited by the Celtiberian tribe of Ausci. The Romans arrived following Julius Caesar's conquest in 56 BC, naming the town Augusta Auscorum, meaning 'Augusta of the Ausci.' Over time, the name evolved from 'Aush' in the local Gascon language to the modern 'Auch.' It became an important center in Roman Gaul, known as Elimberris, and later the metropolis of Novempopulani after Christianity was established.

In 732, to protect against Muslim raiders, the town relocated across the Gers River to its current site. During the Middle Ages, Auch developed as the seat of the Counts of Armagnac and Archbishops of Aquitaine, becoming the capital of Gascony. The 16th century marked a period of significant development, with the king's representative initiating transformations that continued into the 19th century, shaping the city's modern appearance. Auch's prosperity through centuries was tied to church power, river trade, and Gascon pride.

The city's monumental Cathédrale Sainte-Marie, a UNESCO World Heritage site, began construction in 1489 in the late Gothic style and was completed in 1680. Its blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Neoclassical elements is a testament to its long building period. The adjacent Tour d'Armagnac, a 14th-century tower, once served as a prison and a symbol of the bishop's might. Auch's medieval heart is still evident in its narrow 'pousterles' (steep alleys) and timber-framed houses.

Begin your exploration at the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a striking example of Gothic-Renaissance architecture. Inside, observe the 18 lively stained-glass windows by Arnaud de Moles and the intricately carved oak choir stalls, featuring over 1,500 figures. Adjacent to the cathedral is the Tour d'Armagnac, a 40-meter 14th-century tower that once served as a prison and now houses the Cathedral Treasury.

Connecting the upper and lower parts of the city is the Monumental Staircase, a 374-step structure built between 1860 and 1863. Halfway up, you'll find a bronze statue of d'Artagnan, the legendary musketeer, gazing over the Gascon landscape. Explore the medieval pousterles, steep alleys unique to Auch, that wind down from the upper town. The Musée des Amériques (formerly Musée des Jacobins) offers a diverse collection, including France's second-largest collection of Pre-Columbian art and ancient artifacts. Discover the picturesque Rue Dessoles, a narrow shopping street lined with regional produce shops and half-timbered houses.

The best time to visit Auch for pleasant weather is from April through October. During these months, temperatures are comfortable, ranging from 18°C to 28°C, and rainfall is moderate, creating ideal conditions for exploring the city's outdoor attractions. July is typically the sunniest month, while August can experience muggier conditions. The warm season for outdoor activities generally extends from mid-June to mid-September. Fall offers mild weather and fewer tourists, which is also a good time to visit historical sites.

Auch is located about an hour west of Toulouse and is accessible by local TER train. The city is also approximately 80 kilometers from Toulouse and two hours from Bordeaux. The local Tourist Office, located in a 15th-century half-timbered house on Place de la République, is a good starting point for information and guided tours. Free parking is available at the old cloister car park, conveniently close to the city center. Auch is known for its Gascon specialties, including foie gras, duck confit, and Armagnac, which can be sampled at local markets and restaurants. The city center, particularly Rue Dessoles, offers a variety of shops and eateries.