The resting place of Saint Francis lies deep within the basilica, yet for centuries, its precise location remained a closely guarded secret.
Photo: Ananthan Loggi / UnsplashAssisi
“Where ancient stones recount the lives of saints and empires.”
Assisi, as no one tells it.
Not the postcards. The stories even locals don't know — whispered in your ear, right where they happened.
Beneath Assisi's lively main square, an entirely different ancient world slowly reveals itself.
Before becoming a convent for Saint Clare and her followers, this modest church played a pivotal role in Saint Francis' spiritual awakening, though not in the way he initially understood.
Discover every secret of Assisi
Every address, every reveal in full — in your ear, right where it happened.
You pick your stops. You walk. The voice reveals what the others miss.
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The story of Assisi
Assisi, a medieval hill town in Italy's Umbria region, rises gracefully from the green slopes of Mount Subasio, gazing out over the Topino and Chiascio river valleys. This UNESCO World Heritage site is celebrated as the birthplace of Saint Francis, patron saint of animals, ecology, and Italy, and Saint Clare, founder of the Order of Poor Clares. Its warm stone buildings and winding pathways create an atmosphere where ancient narratives intertwine with profound spirituality.
Beyond its significant religious sites, Assisi offers a journey through time, from its Umbrian and Roman origins to its medieval fortifications and Renaissance artworks. The town's singular blend of cultural heritage and natural splendor, with expansive views of the Umbrian Valley, captivates all who visit, whether on a spiritual journey or simply exploring Italy's central heartland.
Assisi's beginnings can be traced to the Umbrians, who settled the area around 1000 BCE. By 450 BCE, the Etruscans gradually asserted control, followed by the Romans after the Battle of Sentinum in 295 BCE. Under Roman governance, Assisi, then known as 'Asisium,' thrived as a municipium, with evidence of its Roman past visible in city walls, the forum (now Piazza del Comune), a theater, an amphitheater, and the Temple of Minerva.
After the Roman Empire's decline, Assisi endured a tumultuous period of invasions and occupations by various powers, including the Ostrogoths, Byzantines, and Lombards. In the 12th century, it emerged as an independent Ghibelline commune, engaging in conflicts with Guelph Perugia. The 14th century saw the fortification of the city walls and the reconstruction of the Rocca Maggiore, an imperial fortress, under papal legate Cardinal Gil de Albomoz.
The 12th and 13th centuries marked a transformative era with the birth of Saint Francis (1181–1182) and Saint Clare (1193–1194). Saint Francis established the Order of Friars Minor in 1208, and Saint Clare, inspired by his teachings, founded the Order of Poor Ladies. Construction of the Basilica of San Francesco began in 1228, two years after Saint Francis' death, and was completed in 1253, becoming a major pilgrimage destination and a repository of Early Renaissance fresco painting. Assisi was annexed to the Papal States in the 16th century and later became part of the Italian kingdom in 1860.
Begin your exploration at the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi, a UNESCO World Heritage site featuring two superimposed churches—the Upper and Lower Basilicas—housing Giotto's frescoes and the tomb of Saint Francis. Next, visit the Basilica of Saint Clare, recognized for its pink and white striped facade and containing Saint Clare's tomb and the San Damiano Cross. The Cathedral of San Rufino, where both Saint Francis and Saint Clare received baptism, displays an impressive Romanesque facade.
In the heart of the town, the Piazza del Comune is a lively square surrounded by historic buildings, including the Roman Temple of Minerva, now a church, and the medieval Torre del Popolo. Descend beneath the piazza to explore the Museum of Roman Assisi, which unveils the ancient Roman Forum. For expansive views of Assisi and the Umbrian countryside, ascend to the Rocca Maggiore, a 14th-century fortress. A short distance from the town, the Eremo delle Carceri, a tranquil hermitage on Mount Subasio, offers a glimpse into Saint Francis' retreats for contemplation. Do not miss the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli, located in the valley below, which encloses the Portiuncula, where Saint Francis established his order.
Assisi welcomes visitors throughout the year, but the shoulder seasons—April to June and September to October—offer pleasant weather and fewer crowds. During these months, temperatures remain mild, ideal for exploring the town and its surrounding landscapes. While summer (July and August) can be warm and humid with more tourists, it also brings various festivals. Winter months provide a quieter experience, fostering a more tranquil atmosphere, particularly around Christmas with its festive lights and nativity scenes.
Assisi's historic center is largely a Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL), so visitors typically park beyond the city walls and explore on foot. Several parking garages are available, such as Parcheggi Mojano. Comfortable walking shoes are essential due to the steep, stone-paved pathways. When visiting religious sites like the Basilicas, a respectful dress code is observed: shoulders and knees must be covered for both men and women.
Assisi is accessible by train, with the station situated in the valley below the town. A shuttle bus (line C) connects the station to the historic center. While Assisi can be experienced as a day trip, staying for a night or two allows for a deeper appreciation of its evening charm once day-trippers have departed. The closest airport is Umbria's San Francesco d'Assisi Airport (PEG).
- Is Assisi a walkable city?
- Yes, Assisi's historic center is compact and best explored on foot. Be prepared for steep, stone-paved pathways.
- What is the dress code for visiting churches in Assisi?
- To enter religious sites like the Basilicas, both men and women must cover their shoulders and knees as a sign of respect.
- How do I get to Assisi from the train station?
- The Assisi train station is in the valley below the town. You can take a shuttle bus (line C) directly to the historic center.
- Is Assisi worth visiting if I'm not religious?
- Absolutely. Assisi's ancient narratives, medieval art, Roman ruins, and beautiful Umbrian landscapes offer a rich experience for all visitors.
- Can I drive and park within Assisi's historic center?
- The historic center is largely a Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL). It's recommended to park in designated garages outside the walls and walk or use public transport.
- What is the main square in Assisi?
- The main square is Piazza del Comune, a central hub surrounded by important historical buildings like the Temple of Minerva.